Upstairs at Sloan's Restaurant

Following a (brief) incarnation as the Bastille, Glasgow's oldest boozer is back under its original moniker of Sloans.

Whilst downstairs plays host to a snug, urbane version of a Victorian tavern, with its pies and pints organic and local, upstairs is the real jewel in Sloan's crown.

Currently only open on a Friday and Saturday night, the aesthetically spectacular restaurant is an ornate, genuinely handsome renovation that pays tribute to Sloan's role as a landmark in Glasgow's cultural life. A million miles from the cockfighting and aquarium-hosting of its colourful past (yeah, they don't make pubs like they used to), Sloan's new claim to fame is classic bistro food with a hearty Scottish injection.

To start, potted crab is a highlight that almost shows up its gilded surrounds. Packing a lip-smacking seaside punch under a perfect crust of butter, this is a real dream to dollop on the accompanying sourdough toast. Similarly, pork terrine is a coarse carnivore's fantasy, unashamedly savoury and fleshy.

For mains, the Perthshire venison casserole is comforting and tomatoey, but could have been more generous with the Bambi, whilst its accompanying clapshot meant it was texturally bland and lacking in bite. A meaty fillet of halibut, daintily plated with wild Strathspey mushrooms, potato puree and a red wine fumet held potentially disparate ingredients together more enjoyably.

Never too stodged out for pudding, we dived into a well-made cheesecake, tart enough to cut through the nursery flavours of the venison and a chocolate tart with raspberries and a dollop of creme fraiche which was gorgeous enough to disappear in a few forkfuls.

With attentive, personable service, the best of Scotland's larder at its disposal and really show-stopping decor, Upstairs at Sloan's is a few tweaks away from being a real destination restaurant.